Installing SS Brake Lines Forums Member How-To Section Installing SS Brake Lines

This topic contains 7 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of spdygak spdygak 4 years, 4 months ago.

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    Profile photo of spdygak
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    Finally getting around to posting the How-To on changing brake lines on my 06. I will post pics of the 07 as well once I get them installed. The procedure is the same. There are different schools of thought but this is what I did. You can modify the parts list and procedure as needed. My only warning is that brake fluid is extremely caustic and will ruin plastics in seconds. I got a drip on my speedometer cover and it now has an etch down it. Cover and protect everything and use care.

    I used:
    metric wrenches
    metric allen wrenches
    torque wrench
    vacuum pump
    soda can (top cut off)
    paper towels
    old towels (fairing protection)
    rubber gloves (hand protection)
    Simple Green (cleaner/degreaser)
    Dot 4 brake fluid
    new brake pads
    Core Moto brake lines

    Profile photo of spdygak
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    First the rear:

    Remove the nut holding the reservoir from the subframe (blue arrow). This makes accessing the two screws on the cover easier. Remove the screws in the reservoir (red arrows). Take care to keep it level, do not spill brake fluid. It is a good idea to cover everything with a towel.

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    The reservoir has a seal under the cover (blue arrow) and then a rubber stopper (red arrow) that may be extended (just flatten it and dry with paper towel).

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    Use the vacuum pump to suck the brake fluid from the reservoir

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    Remove the clamp from the swingarm that holds the line in place.

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    Break loose the bolt from the caliper using a paper towel to catch any fluid and remove it.

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    I used a soda can with the top cut off to catch the fluid in the line.

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    Next break the bolt and remove from the brake master cylinder. Again use a paper towel and don’t drip!

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    Profile photo of spdygak
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    Once the line is removed place the banjo bolt with crush washers in between each contact point.

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    Bolt the line in the master cylinder and torque down.

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    Now you can fill the reservoir and wait for gravity to work the fluid through the line but I chose to bolt the caliper back on. Remember to place crush washers at both contact points on the banjo bolt and torque the bolt. When bleeding the line it is very important to keep the reservoir with fluid in it as not to introduce air into the line or you will have to bleed longer.

    Place the box end of the wrench over the bleeder valve and hook up the vacuum pump rubber line (red arrow). Pump up the brake pedal and hold tight (will not have any pressure for a while). Pump the vacuum and open the bleeder valve carefully. The pedal will push until it stops and immediately close the bleeder valve. Do not let the pressure off of the pedal until the valve is closed. Pump the vacuum again and repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

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    It takes a while. You should start to feel more and more pressure on the pedal and you should watch the reservoir and refill as necessary. It is helpful to have a second set of hands but not entirely necessary. Once you have tight pressure and there is no more air in the line you are done. Connect the clamp to the swingarm and admire your work.

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    Now the front:

    I needed to change the front pads so it was a good time to replace the lines as well. I removed the calipers and cleaned them before doing the lines. I read somewhere it is best to bleed the calipers in place so they do not get an air bubble trapped in them but that may just be a story.

    Loosen the pad bolts (allen wrench) then remove the caliper bolts.

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    Once the caliper is removed from the rotor it is easier to remove the pad bolts by putting pressure on the clip while turning the bolts.

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    Once the old pads are out clean everything well. I used a toothbrush and Simple Green. It is a biodegradable degreaser that is safe for plastics, o-rings and everything on your bike. It’s my favorite. Buy it in the big jug and use full strength to mix with water to desired strength. Costs about $5 a gallon. Don’t buy it in the household cleaning aisle, get it in the automotive section. This is a good PM job as well. Clean your calipers often in order for them to stay in shape.

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    Once clean, install the new pads. Tighten the pad bolts (remember to put pressure on the clip to help them in place. Use a screw driver to carefully pry the pads open and push the caliper pistons all the way out. Re-install the caliper on the rotor. Torque everything properly.

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    Great write up it makes it even easier if you have access to a vacuum pump. Now be ready as she will lock up them tires really quick now.

    2014 CB1000R
    *2012 CBR250R
    *2005 CBR1000RR - SOLD

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    Next remove the clamps on both sides of the front fender.

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    And the clamp on the lower triple tree

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    The front reservoir is similar to the rear with the plastic seal and diaphragm. It also has a float in it as well. Make sure you are aware of the order of these pieces when re-installing. Use the vacuum pump to remove the fluid in the reservoir.

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    Then break the line at the caliper and drain into the can as before. Don’t drip!

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    Break and remove the line at the reservoir.

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    Carefully remove the stock lines.

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    Remember to follow the tags on the Core lines for direction. Both lines hook directly to the reservoir with crush washers between each contact point.

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    Bolt both calipers back on and remember to torque properly with crush washers at each contact point.

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    Time to bleed the lines. Remember to keep fluid in the reservoir. Start by bleeding the line furthest away first (left side). It will take a while these lines are longer than the rear.

    I used the clamp on the lower triple tree but not the ones on the fender. These lines are stiff enough to stay where you put them. Although I am told you can order clamps from Core, I have not verified this.

    Points to remember
    –Pay attention to the bends in the banjos as they are curved specifically by bike.
    –Use crush washers on each side of every banjo (all contact points).
    –Keep your reservoir full as you bleed.
    –Keep fluid off of everything.
    –Take your time.

    When you are ready to hit the road don’t go flying off. You need to take it slow and test you pressure and release. Do not hit 50 and touch the brakes. If it locks up you will have a bad day.

    I hope this helps. If you have any questions be sure to ask!

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    @SDM1 said:
    Great write up it makes it even easier if you have access to a vacuum pump. Now be ready as she will lock up them tires really quick now.

    Thanks! I agree about the vacuum pump. The feel of the SS lines is definitely better. I will post pics of the 07 once I install the new lines for it and the new reservoir.

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