My F2 Builds

RideCBR.com Forums Member Build Threads My F2 Builds

This topic contains 283 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of jnsracing jnsracing 2 years, 10 months ago.

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  • #28631
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
    Registered Member
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    Points: 12,570

    So, I’m new to this forum, and made my introduction in the New Member section, and now wanted to get folks here, who are interested anyway, up-to-date on what’s transpired on my first F2, and now recently, the second one as well.

    Here’s the F2 as I picked it up, 4 years ago, with only 4,000 miles. Not only was it in the colors that I believe are the best the F2 ever had to offer, the sharpest and least “dated” looking, but it also looked practically brand new.
    The original owner got the bike when he was in his somewhat later years, following a divorce, and took very good care of it. My boss, at that time, bought it from the original owner, and only put a few hundred miles on it, before I bought it from him – he also cared for it well, and is the kind of guy that wouldn’t even ride it fast – unfortunately, it did tip over in his driveway, but the signs of that were nearly impossible to see, if you weren’t examining it very closely.

    Step one was to ditch the dried-out, no-grip rubber that was on the bike, and slap on some Q2s.

    Much more to come, just wanted to get the thread started, so I could post up the link in the New Member section.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28638
    Profile photo of juliet
    juliet
    Registered Member
    Training Wheels
    Points: 20

    Oh my, that F2 is absolutely beautiful and nice original ones are getting rarer … don’t you dare molest that bike or I will kill you until you die from it!! ;-)

    Jules

    #28640
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    jnsracing
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    Ahhh, the famous Juliet!! :wink: I’m a member of several other CBR related forums, and have seen your posts on one of them in particular, the one where it says (clears throat) “banned” uder your username! I am assuming that is just a joke, but if not, well, who cares, glad to see you’re active here.

    Now, about the specimen of F2 I picked up… no, it is not in this condition anymore… no, it was not my doing (well, some of it) … yes, I cried like a stinking baby when it got “molested”, as I treasured the original condition of the bike!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28643
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    jnsracing
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    Now, dear Juliet, I know how you feel about these bikes in their original form, and I’m of two minds on that… Yes, I was planning on doing modifications for a more “modern” look, but more importantly, shaving weight, and improving performance, HOWEVER, that said, I was keeping all OEM items pulled off, so that I could restore it to bone-stock setup, which I knew that I would eventually do.

    Unfortunately, some butt-munch in a Suburban. made an improper lane change on a tight left sweeper, with a decreasing radius, and ran me into the gutter, and there was a lot of damage to the gorgeous original fairings, exhaust (that was easily restored, later), the stator cover, parts of the rear fender apparatus and signal stalks, and some of the controls, hand and feet both.

    So, now you that you know where I’m coming from, I’ll proceed.

    I cut and removed the rearmost bracketing, which holds the rear reflectors, the nubs for connecting cargo items, and the helmet lock on the left side, deburred the cut area, filled to re-form, and repainted in the same gloss black. Also installed at this point was a Yoshimura RS-3 carbon fiber can.

    I replaced the rear fender apparatus with a fender eliminator, form Competition Werkes, I believe.

    There was a very slight oil leak, that I traced to a valve cover bolt that was broken, assumedly from the original owner, or a mechanic over torquing, though there would have been no reason at all to be checking valve clearances at 4,000 miles or less…who knows? Anyway, this oil was very slightly leaking down the front of the head, then drawn out and splattered around by the fan, making it hard to find the leak initially. I got another bolt for about $9, torqued it correctly, and got the new stator cover at this time.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28644
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    jnsracing
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    I installled an anodized billet reservoir cover, just to pretty things up a touch, and upgraded to stainless steel brake lines up front – at this time I was also beginning to fit the new fairings, after discovering that to replace the damaged OEM plastics, repaint, and reapply the original graphics, would cost over $500 more than what I paid for the bike – I later learned that those graphics, expensive or not, were not available anywhere, which made me sad, and once again angry at the idiot who started all this with his lack of attention while driving. Anyway, that was several years ago, and I’ve ranted enough about that particular rat-b@st@rd!!

    Before mounting the new fairings completely, I wanted to install some frame sliders, and concocted a little tool to mark the plastics for the small hole drilled to serve as the center for the hole-cutter.
    I took the original motor mount bolt, used narrow strips of duct tape to attatch a thumb-tac to the end, heated the tac, and pushed it through in reverse, with the fairings mounted, so it would leave a little divet for me to use as a mark for my original hole…

    …Then used the hole cutter, going from the outside in, to reduce paint and decal flaking while cutting.

    At the place where the tail farings connect to the receiver on the main side fairings, the factory body work uses a little plastic 1/2 turn locknut to hold it on. There was no good way to transfer these bits to the new fairings, not to mention that I wanted to leave them on the originals, in case I sold them, so I just put a small short bolt facing outward, through the main fairing, securing it there using a very thin nut and washer, which left a about a 1/4 inch or so of threads sticking through the hole I drilled in the tail fairings.
    I then used a couple of “appliance access door” nuts to secure the tail fairings with.
    It looks pretty good, in my opinion, and allows me to unscrew these little “knobs” and remove the tail pieces without needing any kind of tool.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28645
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    I got some billet passenger pegs, first from Competition Werkes, which did NOT fit, returned them, and ordered some from Pro-Tek, which also did not fit! :evil: I contacted both companies, and confirmed that the part numbers sent, were correct for the application – both brands look like they were cut with the same CNC program, but the bottom line is, they are not correct for the application. So I gave up, and cut them down myself, which required removing about 1/4 inch+ of billet material, shaping the new edge, and using some rubber washers above and below, to put pressure on the pegs while mounted, so they have the ability to be put “up”, and not just fall down… they were not compatible with the “spring washer”, so to speak, that gives the OEM pegs that “hold” on the pegs while they’re up.

    I finished the fairing install, having to use some ingenuity along the way, to accomodate the poor fitment, added some reflective red stripes to the rims, installed some faux-carbon fiber mirrors and new grips, which resulted in the bike looking like this.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28646
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    **Edit – deleted content – post was in duplicate**

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28647
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    dubv
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    Points: 46,040

    @jnsracing I like the new look! It reminds me of the Kawasaki in Top Gun. Looks awesome Maverick!

    #28650
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    jnsracing
    Registered Member
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    Points: 12,570

    I had already installed a K&N filter, to replace the very dirty OEM unit, and of course, that, and a slight contribution from the slip-on, made my fueling “off”, but I planned to address that when I yanked and cleaned the carbs anyway, as the bike never ran really well at high RPMs, due to the length of time it sat idle in the posession of the original owner.

    So I cleaned the carbs thoroughly, installed some agressively tapered jet needles, got the fuel screws at a good “start” setting, and jumped to 138 mains (stock is 135).
    One spirited ride proved that the top-end was improved, but it still needed more fuel… I skipped right to 142 mains, and the thing ran like a scalded dog on meth!! (I do not endorse the use of Methamphetamines, for humans, or animals!)
    I had to readjust my riding, to keep the front wheel on the ground, it just skittered the surface of the pavement, until I got into 4th gear… but that’s a problem I like just fine! :mrgreen:

    The Factory Pro jet needles:

    I poured in some Seafoam to each cylinder to reduce the carbon build up in on the valves and on the piston tops… this is something that I “just do”, but DO NOT do this without letting it evaporate for a considerable time, and pull the plugs before cranking over the motor, or you could have a hydro-lock, and damage the rods/journals.

    With the top-end dialed-in, I later made adjustments to the needle clips/shims, and then the pilot screws, to get all rev-ranges operating well.

    For more weight savings, and less rotating mass, resulting in faster acceleration, I installed AFAM 520 sprockets, and a D.I.D. erv3 chain… these are the only brands I will buy, for the drive train.

    These items lessened the final drive by 2.5 lb.

    I’m just noticing, that in that last picture, it looks like I’ve got a 180 tire mounted! It’s just the angle, because that is just a stock 4.5 inch rim with a 160 tire.

    Next, I pulled the top triple clamp, since the powder-coating was scratched and ugly, due to keys jangling, stripped it down, re-painted it black, and applied one of those carbon fiber covers to it… I have since removed that silly cover, and gone with a brushed finish, and will polish it in the near future.

    Also at the front of the bike, I replaced those first faux-carbon fiber mirrors, with some that had a more modern look, were lighter yet in weight, and provide a much better view behind me.

    You might note in these pictures, that I ditched the tank cover, that came with the fairing kit, realizing that the factory colors in the tank, didn’t clash with the new fairings so bad after all, as I originally thought… it’s funny how taking a “re-assessment”, with a second look, changes things.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28651
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    jnsracing
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    @dubv said:
    @jnsracing I like the new look! It reminds me of the Kawasaki in Top Gun. Looks awesome Maverick!

    Thanks, dubv!

    I thought that was a FJ1200? I haven’t seen that movie in quite a few years… guess it’s time to give it another watch.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28652
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    dubv
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    Nope. LOL!

    #28702
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    Ahh yes, the GPZ!! That’s not my favorite vintage of that bike, though looking back, I remember thinking it was the shiz-nittle as a young teen, but now the upper cowling looks weird to me… it’s funny your appreciation of things change, in either direction, as you move through life.

    My favorites are the early ’80’s models, especially in the green/blue/white, with the bikini fairing around the headlight – there’s a guy that works near my work, who has a nice example, and I see and hear it in the mornings, while I’m out back having my “breakfast” cigarette – the thing is really sweet!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28709
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    I’m not a fan of the “paddle” style rear stands – the rubber coating on the paddles just slowly tears away, and you have to keep re-coating them, and they often allow the bike to slide, marking and mucking up the swingarm, not to mention, needing to be re-positioned… it was time for spools.
    I picked up some coupling nuts, in 8mm X 1.25 pitch, and welded them to the swinger, screwed in some delrin spools, and done. The welds are good – I can sit on the bike while it’s up, with no problem, and at this point, they’ve been in use for about 15,000 miles.

    One of the tricks I used with the new fairings, when connecting some of the pieces (since they didn’t come with any of the hardware needed, was using some automotive trim fasteners, in two different sizes, for locking the inner/lower cowling pieces to each other, in the front and underneath, and at the top, locking it to the upper cowling set… I think it looks like it was meant to be that way. 8-)

    Got the rear binders updated, with a stainless steel brake line, EBC contour rotor, new fluid, and a good bleeding of the system.

    I didn’t make any other changes for a while – I had trimmed 23 lb. 4.6oz from the stock weight, so far.

    I decided to try to get some good looking pics of the bike at this stage… I’m no photographer, not by any stretch, but I think I found some decent backdrops.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28713
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    jnsracing
    Registered Member
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    Points: 12,570

    Suspension time – starting with the forks.
    I got some .95KG/MM Race Tech springs, new seals and dust wipers, Motorex fork oil, and new crush washers for the lower retaining bolt, and gave the forks a refresh/upgrade.

    I seated the new fork seal by hand, flipped the old seals and slid them down to the new ones, and used a large washer with a PVC pipe, to drive them in – using the old seals in this fashion, prevents any possible damage to the new seals.

    After calculating the desired length of the preload spacer, based on the preload I wanted, the height of the adjuster/cap, and the distance from the top of the leg to the top of the spring, I cut the preload spacer, and installed all the parts, using Loctite on the damping rod retaining bolts before torquing them to spec.
    To get the fork oil at the proper level of 135mm from the top of the fork leg, I used the “depth guage” portion of my caliper, and set the caliper to 136mm, so that way I could use the depth guage as sort of a “dipstick”, and added little bits of oil at a time, until about 1mm of oil showed up on the end – keeping the fork leg perfectly vertical and inserting the depth guage perfectly straight is, of course, a given quantity.

    Here’s a better pic of the bike after the tank cover was deleted… like I said earlier, I think the stock colors work just fine with the new graphics, but for some reason, I was dead set on a black tank in the beginning, thinking the stock colors didn’t look “quite right”… I’m really not sure why I thought that!

    At this time, I was only doing track days, and not yet racing the bike, so I installed a headlight cut-off switch, for when I had these things taped up.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28719
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    bambam
    Registered Member
    RideCBR Guru
    Points: 22,470

    Nice solution to a spool-less swing arm. i think ill steal that one from ya…

    Sweet F2 Jeff . She looks trick!

    #28723
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
    Registered Member
    RideCBR Guru
    Points: 12,570

    @bambam said:
    Nice solution to a spool-less swing arm. i think ill steal that one from ya…

    Have it it!! It’s more like borrowing, anyway!! I could never go back to the paddles… just use the 8mm X 1.25 couplers, so you can order standard Honda spools, for pretty much any year – they’re all 8mm.

    @bambam said:
    Sweet F2 Jeff . She looks trick!

    Thanks! Soon enough, when I get caught up to current time, you’ll see that setup migrate to a new bike, and further development of the race setup, for the F2 you’ve been viewing.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28734
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    I think I mentioned some of the fitment frustrations with the Hong Kong fairing kit… here’s another issue/resolution.
    The tabs on the tail fairings did not line up very well, which eventually led to a couple of the tabs breaking – remounting the tabs with a mound of plastic epoxy, made them stronger then they were before, but the shape was still wrong – too big to seat correctly in the grommets, sometimes pushing them out of their holders, and in the process, being a little unsightly – and the tabs in the back were popping out when I hit bumps.

    The tabs on the new fairings were too big, and a little too long, in the front, and the nubs were not big enough in the rear, to hold properly. So for the front I cut them short, and used a Dremel to attempt to re-shape the tab-end, so it would fit properly, and in the rear, I used some more plastic epoxy to add some material to the existing tab, and then used the Dremel to try to re-shape those… it ain’t pretty, but it works now.
    There’s a faint dotted line, that I added to this first pic, to show what the tab was like before.

    One of the rear tabs with the “epoxy-enhanced” tab-end.

    After that, the rear tabs never popped out on their own, and the front sits flush.

    The “flimsier” ABS plastic was lighter, which was OK, since the new bodywork, belive it or not, was about 2.5 lb. lighter, for the whole kit. In any impact situation, it would be weaker, but it was nice that I shed some more weight. But the front fender being so thin and flimsy was a problem, as it would literally “bend down” under the airflow, at high speeds, and rub the tire… if you pushed down lightly on the fender with your hand, then did the same with a stock fender, you could very easily feel the difference.
    I copied the radius from a stock fender, and transposed that radius on the new fender, in a rather rudimentary fashion, then followed the “cut line” with a Dremel, cleaned up the edges with a small drum sander on the Dremel, then used Honda gloss black touch-up paint on the cut area – it looked good as new, and no more flexing in the wind, touching the tire.

    Another incident, where the new plastics being more fragile, was a problem, were places around mounting holes that had to be drilled out larger for proper fitment.
    This is one of those spots. Though it’s hard to make it out in this picture, you can just barely see where this crack is, which goes all the way from the hole, to the outer radius:

    I lightly sanded and cleaned the backside of this area, then used JB Weld to fuse a 1/16 inch thick plastic washer to the back side… it’s not pretty, but you can’t see the repair when it’s mounted, and it does the job.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28742
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    Since I didn’t carry a passenger very often, and was already focusing a lot on weight reduction, I fabricated an aluminum exhaust hanger, which, when you took in account the weight of the original, un-modified rear brackets, shaved a total of 3 lb. 7.7 oz, since the new part only weighed 6 oz.

    Since making the first one, I’ve improved on the design, and sold five of them to other F2 riders/racers – soon I’ll be fully polishing them, instead of just having a brush-like finish.

    I started getting things safety-wired, further prepping for eventual racing on this bike – some of these items have been later upgraded with spring-clips, for quicker removal, but I just wanted to get some practice doing it again, since the last time I had to safety wire something was the early ’90’s!

    MCRA and CMRA, and probably CCS and WERA as well, require the use of a hose clamp, even for K&N filters, which have a “nut” on the end, with a hole in it for running safety wire… I coud get by with this for track days, and I added the clamp at a later time.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28744
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    dubv
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    @jnsracing Man you are one crafty dude. I love the “outside the box” thinking.

    #28748
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    inkslingerxx
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    Sweet baby jesus. I asked for pics and got em lol. Very detailed write up Jeff glad to have you aboard. Between you and @juliet I read on here for hours haha.

    #28801
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    jnsracing
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    @dubv said:
    @jnsracing Man you are one crafty dude. I love the “outside the box” thinking.

    Thanks dub, I like “outside the box” anyway, but you definitely have to be that way when you’re po!! I mean, my budget’s tighter than a baby squirrels but!! :mrgreen:

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28802
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    @inkslingerxx said:
    Sweet baby jesus. I asked for pics and got em lol. Very detailed write up Jeff glad to have you aboard. Between you and @juliet I read on here for hours haha.

    Thanks! There’s a truckload more pics to come, but I’m anxious to get this thread “caught up”, so I can check the other members builds!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28804
    Profile photo of juliet
    juliet
    Registered Member
    Training Wheels
    Points: 20

    @JNSRacing said:
    Ahhh, the famous Juliet!! :wink: I’m a member of several other CBR related forums, and have seen your posts on one of them in particular, the one where it says (clears throat) “banned” uder your username! I am assuming that is just a joke, but if not, well, who cares, glad to see you’re active here.


    Nope, not a joke … I’m banned from dot.net too … it’s because I’m a despicable and loathsome creature, and probably a bit smelly too …
    :-P

    #28805
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    juliet
    Registered Member
    Training Wheels
    Points: 20

    @JNSRacing said:
    Now, dear Juliet, I know how you feel about these bikes in their original form, and I’m of two minds on that… Yes, I was planning on doing modifications for a more “modern” look, but more importantly, shaving weight, and improving performance, HOWEVER, that said, I was keeping all OEM items pulled off, so that I could restore it to bone-stock setup, which I knew that I would eventually do.

    Unfortunately, some butt-munch in a Suburban. made an improper lane change on a tight left sweeper, with a decreasing radius, and ran me into the gutter, and there was a lot of damage to the gorgeous original fairings, exhaust (that was easily restored, later), the stator cover, parts of the rear fender apparatus and signal stalks, and some of the controls, hand and feet both.

    Ah, well, in that case I guess I can let it slide, just this once … especially as she looks so spiffing now and in view of the amount of work you’ve put in there. But, I’ll be watching ya though!! ;-)

    #28806
    Profile photo of bambam
    bambam
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    Points: 22,470

    Shaving 23+ pounds off an F2 and not looking butchered is a big deal- Nice work and clean pics .

    #28809
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    @juliet said:

    Nope, not a joke … I’m banned from dot.net too … it’s because I’m a despicable and loathsome creature, and probably a bit smelly too …
    :-P

    Despicable and loathseme, eh? Somehow I’m having a hard time buying that!
    I didn’t join that forum until 2010, but I had been lurking there for a couple of years, and keeping most of my activity on cbrworld.net, which has been down for a long time. Anyway, I know I read quite a few threads where you posted, and I sure don’t remember you behaving in a “despicbale and loathsome” manner! Now, since you’re in the UK, you’re smelliness would have to be mighty fierce to waft it’s way to the middle of the U.S., but something tells me you’re not being straight regarding that, as I do seem to remember you posting something about hot showers! Unless, those events, the hot showers that is, come but once in a great while, I’m bettin’ you smell alright! :mrgreen:

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28811
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    @juliet said:
    Ah, well, in that case I guess I can let it slide, just this once … especially as she looks so spiffing now and in view of the amount of work you’ve put in there. But, I’ll be watching ya though!! ;-)

    Yes, keep watching… much more to come!

    Just for the record, I’ve been scouring the interwebs for a couple of years now, looking for an example of that OEM color of F2, that’s even just close to the condition mine was in… I’ve only found two that look pretty decent, and in both cases they were simply over-priced, with the owners asking for far more than the book value for one in pristine condition – often times I’ve found them priced as much as $2000USD beyond the top book price 8-O … some people really need to get a clue! :roll:

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28813
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    @bambam said:
    Shaving 23+ pounds off an F2 and not looking butchered is a big deal- Nice work and clean pics .

    Thanks again, @bambam … and it’s shed more weight since, especially in race trim, which is kind of a given.

    BTW, congrats on BOTM, I found the theads, and checked it out… nice lookin’ 929 – I’m gonna be in the market for a 954 in the hopefully near future.

    @dubv , you’re ride’s lookin’ sweet as well!!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28827
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    As owners of F2s know, especially those who have had experience racing, or at least just running track days, the bike’s front brakes, even with those seemingly little calipers, are quite under-rated, and do a really good job of hauling down from high speeds, especially with braided stainless lines, fresh fluid, and new pads.

    I had never raced an F2 before, and it had been quite a few years since I raced anything at all, so I picked the brains of a lot of guys with experience racing an F2, and found that the main issue with braking, was that the OEM rotors would sometimes warp when they heated up, and with only 276mm of surface on OEM steel, heating up is something they could do quickly, pending the track, and how hard they were flogging the bike.

    I decided to upgrade to larger rotors, made with more modern materials that handled heat better, and with more surface area, that helped with that issue anyway.
    I went with the EBC 310mm pro-lite rotors, which required caliper relocation brackets.

    Here is a picture of the bike with those rotors installed.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #28847
    Profile photo of rhyno900
    rhyno900
    Registered Member
    RideCBR Newbie
    Points: 336

    Wow bro I’m in aw of your mad skills. Im just beging in self repairs and teardowns. I did some minor mechanical to my 98 900rr, and then repainted it last winter. I thought i was doing pretty good. But you sir come of as a genius mad scientist. great job very nice F2.

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