My F2 Builds

RideCBR.com Forums Member Build Threads My F2 Builds

This topic contains 283 replies, has 17 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of jnsracing jnsracing 3 years, 1 month ago.

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  • #55560
    Profile photo of 94f2-08rr
    94f2-08rr
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    @jnsracing – that bike looks clean. And I don’t mean, because you just gave it a wash… LOOKIN’ GOOD!!

    #55562
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    jnsracing
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    Thanks man!
    Now I’m chompin’ at the bit for two things: a) to get back out on the race track, and b) to get the next stage going with the street bike, where the frame, swingarm, and wheels are powder-coated, and I graft in the F4i subframe and tail assembly.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55563
    Profile photo of spdygak
    spdygak
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    Did you decide what you’re selling or keeping?

    #55600
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
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    @spdygak said:
    Did you decide what you’re selling or keeping?

    Same as always, I will sell the Repsol bike when it is complete – that’s my plan anyway, and I’m fairly certain that’s what I’ll do, because I’m anxious to do some different builds. I’m thinking my next few projects are going to be an RC51, a newer Fireblade (’07 to newer), and I’d like to try again on an ’09+ R1 project, which I had to abandon before, due to lack of work.
    So, the plan is still to unload it, but without a doubt, when I’m finished with the whole project, and have all the powder-coating done, and the new Michelins, and the F4i subframe and tail, THAT’S when it will become more difficult to part with.

    Now with all that said, I have someone who is making me an offer on the bike, which is a trade for an ’85 Porsche 944, and also $2500 cash… this is the person I was originally focusing on as the prospective buyer, from the get go.
    I should be getting pics of the car today, so I can begin to assess what work needs to be done, and even though I really want to finish this build, I’m kind of intrigued by this prospect, as I’ve owned and worked on many German cars, and this could be a fun new project as well.

    It’s been a long time since I was behind the wheel of a Porsche, with my most recent German cars being Mercedes and my current BMW, so that would be kind of exciting… we’ll see!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55608
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    cooper
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    Points: 600

    That’s some top work on that bike. I like the levers too. Where did you get them from and how much are they?
    Thanks.

    #55609
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
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    Thanks @Cooper!
    They were from China, the original link for what I bought is here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repsol-Foldable-Adjustable-B-C-Lever-For-Honda-1991-2007-CBR600-F2-F3-F4-F4i-/321221774563?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aca4f4ce3&vxp=mtr

    $58 with free shipping – I had them in about 8 or 9 days.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55611
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    cooper
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    Points: 600

    Great! Thanks for the link I may well get a set too if you don’t mind me being a copycat.
    Really smart levers and suit that F2 perfectly.
    Thanks again.

    #55628
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    jnsracing
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    No problem, if the part is available, and you like it…get it!! :mrgreen:

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55690
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    I didn’t mention it before, but I got my Dunlop race rains on the way – ordered them Tuesday – I’m not sure when I’ll have them, because I haven’t received any shipping information… if they shipped when they said they might, but just forgot to send a notification, then I’ll likely have them on Monday.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55751
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    And the rains are in!

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55765
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    spdygak
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    Nice shoes! So I like the trade for the Porsche. Did you get pics? Although I’m not a huge fan of the look of the 944, it’s still a Porsche. My favorite car growing up.

    #55775
    Profile photo of jnsracing
    jnsracing
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    Nope, I still haven’t gotten pics – she’s not real good on channels of communication.
    But, I’m in no hurry really, and the truth is, as I mentioned before, the bike isn’t anywhere near done, and I’d really like to finish the project.

    What determines whether or not I go ahead and unload the bike now, rather than try to talk her into holding off for a while, is the condition of the Porsche, and whether the title is good.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55844
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    jnsracing
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    I got around to installing the other right-angle valve stem set in my spare black rims, polished them up, mounted the rains and balanced both wheels, and got the rear rotor mounted – once I get the front rotors on, the rain set is good to go.

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    #55847
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    cbr-f2
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    Nice!!! So you have 2 sets of the big rotors for the race bike?

    :bow:

    #55855
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    Nope, the rain rims will have OEM rotors front and rear, which means in a wet even, I’ll have to remove the caliper relocation brackets… this is fine, as my need for the better braking the big rotors afford, will not be necessary in the wet.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55911
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    jnsracing
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    Very little has been going on, but I’ll be a little bit busy with some bike work this weekend – I got the front rotors and cush drive/sprocket carrier installed on the wet set, and since we’re finally past the point where it’s still freezing overnight, I’m headin’ out now to re-mount the race wheels, and get the race brakes installed, among other things.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #55918
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    spdygak
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    The wheels are sure lookin good. Question about teh valve stems. I picked up mine form MotoMummy. Where did you get yours? They seem kinda cheapy but from MotoMummy I would assume they are only selling something quality. They screw on teh inside of the rim, do they need any locktite or anything to keep them from backing off? I’m nervous because it’s something new to me.

    #55921
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    jnsracing
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    @spdygak said:
    The wheels are sure lookin good. Question about teh valve stems. I picked up mine form MotoMummy. Where did you get yours? They seem kinda cheapy but from MotoMummy I would assume they are only selling something quality. They screw on teh inside of the rim, do they need any locktite or anything to keep them from backing off? I’m nervous because it’s something new to me.

    I’ve never bought anything from MotoMummy, but I checked their site, and found the Bridgeport right-angle stems on the main page – these are made by Ariate, and are the same that I’m running.
    I got mine from SportbikeTrackgear.com, and I think I paid about the same… are these the one’s you got?

    Anyway, you want to make sure the ID of the hole in the wheel is clear of any dirt/debris, and torque them appropriately – the conversion is to about 8 ft. lb.
    Since this is a relatively light torque value, and the stem assembly is aluminum, I strongly recommend you NOT use a torque wrench unless it is rated for a range including that low value, AND it’s a reputable brand of wrench… it would be better to just hand-tighten it, rather than run the risk of damaging the part. The torque wrench I use for most my bike stuff is a Craftsmen rated from 5 ft. lb. to 75 ft. lb., so I’ve had no problem with low torque values. Using correct torque specs is important, and I highly recommend always doing so, but like I said, if you don’t have the appropriate tool, just get it mildly tight.

    No Loc-Tite is needed, as you will see on the threads of the nut that secures the piece, that there is a compound already there.

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    #55924
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    spdygak
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    Thanks for the info. :rockon:
    Yes those are the ones I got and I feel better now. Looking to get them on when I change to my Q3s this week. I do have a torque wrench and agree with properly torquing parts since they are so hard to remove or you can damage parts if not done properly.

    #55939
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    jnsracing
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    Awesome, but remember, it’s just as important that the torque wrench is rated for the lower values, and is a good quality unit, for example: Harbor Freight makes a signal beam torque wrench that is rated for 20-150 foot-pounds, so it is not recommended to use this for anything lower, especially 7 or 8, which is very low, BUT if you spin the dial down, you WILL see markings for the lower values, even though it is not rated for it, and that can throw people off.

    They also have one that is rated for 50-300, and I’m not certain about this, but it may have the lower numbers on the dial as well – the truth is, I don’t think I would trust the wrench they sell that’s rated for 5-80 foot-pounds… with items like this, it pays to spend more money for a reputable brand.

    Now I realize you may know all of this very well, and if so, disregard, but there are lots of folks that just haven’t used tools enough to be aware of the potential issues here, and this could be a help to others as well… snapped bolts SUCK, and using a cheap-o torque wrenche, especially of the wrong rating, or one that hasn’t been re-calibrated in ages, will lead to many snapped bolts! :-?

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    #55956
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    jnsracing
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    So I finally got the CL pads on, got the wheels re-mounted, re-torqued the fasteners, and wired it all back up.

    I had put some new OEM pads on the rear, which only saw a wee bit of track time, so with the CL pads also on the rear now, I’m left with that set of OEM rear pads, with lots of life left, to put on the street bike.

    And then… nekkid again!!

    I put in some new plugs, and added a couple of gallons of fresh fuel to the very near empty tank.

    Before winter, I had expressed that the thing didn’t seem to be running right, and I suspected I was running a smidge rich, and that the semi-new plugs were already fouled out… indeed, they were a touch fouled out, and wet.
    I put in some new plugs, and decided to dial my fuel screws back in to 2 1/4 turns out, which is only 1/8 turn over OEM baseline, and start it up and run it for a while.
    I noted it was struggling, and on the lean side, so I adjusted 1/4 turn out, started it and ran it for a bit, and repeated, until it ran the best – this had me still ending up at 3 turns, which is where it started, but something just didn’t seem right – even after letting it warm up plenty, the idle just wasn’t right… wasn’t smooth.

    I suspected a slight air leak, so I let it cool off for a bit while I worked on other stuff.
    I fired it back up, ran it for about 2 minutes, sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake boots, and sure enough, I had an immediate increase in revs, so instead of putting the bodywork right back on, like I had planned, I’ll have to yank the tank and airbox, and check my boot clamps.

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    #56506
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    jnsracing
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    Round 1 Race Report

    Round 1, at Putnam Park in Indiana, was a weekend riddled with bad luck! Three separate mechanical issues cost me a LOT of track time, which is something that you never want, especially when you’re learning a new track.

    Saturday… The Dunlop slicks were excellent, and I never had any grip issues over the course of the weekend. I really liked the track, which could be quite flowing, once you pieced all the bits together.

    I had fun in the early sessions, and my Saturday race was at 4pm.
    Two sessions before that, I hadn’t even completed one lap, and suddenly the bike completely shut down, while exiting turn two. :-? I had either lost fuel or spark, and was suspecting fuel, as after getting well off the track, I wore the battery completely down while attempting to start it, but didn’t smell any fuel at the exhaust.
    After the session was over, the crash truck brought me back to the garage, and I got tearing into the bike quickly, so I could hopefully resolve the issue before the race – I did resolve it, and missed two sessions, but I was ready to grid up for the race.

    So, the race starts, and the bike was running excellent again, but not for long. I only made it to turn 8, and the bike completely shut down again, but this time, I was unable to restart the bike, and I noticed my dash was dead… total loss of electrical power! :(

    So once again, I go back to the garage on the crash truck, and day one is over. I found after testing the battery, that it had lost one of the cells – after charging for while, it would only hold 10 volts.

    Sunday… picked up and installed a brand new battery as soon as I got to the track, and put the bike back together – this cost me my first session of the day, but with another chilly morning (44ºF Saturday/46ºF Sunday), I didn’t care, as the only thing I missed was having to tip-toe around the track to limit cold-tearing of the tires.
    Sunday’s race was at noon, and I was ready to go, having taken further measures to avoid a recurrence of the fueling issue.

    Another issue I discovered, though not with the bike, was that my transponder was not working – I was too busy with the issues I was working, that I had not had time to check the timesheets, where I would have noticed that I wasn’t listed.
    I scrambled to get another transponder mounted, and made it to the grid in time to take my warm-up lap, and grid up.

    All issues resolved, and I was ready to go for the race. I made a good start, but after 5 laps, I made a mistake of my own… I got into turn 7 a wee bit hot, which is a tight right-hander, due to missing a down shift.
    I had to either trail the brake heavily into the turn, and risk washing out the front on the track surface, or go into the grass, gather it back up, and get back to it – I chose the latter.
    In the grass, I got lined up, and checked to make sure the track was clear, but got too greedy with the throttle on what I learned was still-damp grass, spun out the rear, and had a mild crash in the grass.

    I got the bike up quickly, got on the track, and proceeded to hot-pit, so they could look over the bike.
    They released me back to the track, and 1 lap later, mechanical issue three came to the fore… clutch… OUT. :-x :pissed:
    That put “paid” to Sunday, and I missed ALL of the afternoon sessions.

    Since my transponder had not been working, I got very little in terms of lap times, and the only thing I know, is that during that race, I had improved my lap time by over 4 seconds, compared to the best time of the first session where I was running a new transponder… what I don’t know, is whether that was my fastest of the weekend, or if I ran better laps when running the dud transponder.

    So, I missed about 50% of all possible time on track, and have no lap times for about 90% of what I did get to run.

    Hopefully, all bad luck for the season was spent there, and I can have smoother running for the rest of the year… Gateway Motorsports Park, in St. Louis, is where we will run the next two rounds.

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    #57307
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    jnsracing
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    This past weekend I finally freed up some time to work on the race bike – the replacement windscreen and Dzus fasteners have been in my possession for a couple of weeks, but since all the bodywork was going to be coming off anyway, for some other needed work, they’ll just be sitting around a little longer.

    To recap, the crash damage was not all that bad – just lost a Dzus fastener, broke my windscreen, bent my rear brake lever, and did some slight damage to the lower.

    I straightened the lever… straight enough, anyway!

    One thing that happened at the track, which I forgot to mention, was that when I came into the garage after one of my sessions, there was a guy that knew I was going to be in a rush to resolve a mechanical issue, who put the rear-stand under for me – upon doing so, one of my welded coupling nuts for the spools broke off.
    They’ve supported the weight of the bike, many times with me on it as well, for 4 years now, but finally gave out, so I’m using this as an opportunity to make some changes while I’m addressing it.

    I’ve been wanting to put the rear hugger on the street bike anyway, as I’m cleaning off “slung” chain lube from the red wheel more often than I’d like, so I pulled that, suspended the bike again, and removed the swinger.

    The plan is to replace the hugger with a simple aluminum chain guard, which will be lighter anyway, and then I’m freed up to cut/grind off all the unneeded tabs for mounting the OEM hugger, which will further reduce weight.
    I’ve already remounted the spools by drilling a hole, and securing them using a captive square nut inside the swingarm, so with eliminating the coupling nuts and welding material, I’ll shave just a smidge more unsprung weight.

    Once I’ve ground off the items mentioned above, and the remnants of the welds, I’m going to have the swingarm powder-coated black, mount the new anodized black aluminum chain guard (already ordered), and put it all back together. It should look pretty decent – I hope so, anyway – but in this case the function is more important than the form.

    I’ll repair the damage to the lower fairing, but before it goes all back together with the new windscreen, I’ve got to replace the clutch.
    I’ve got the race clutch in, and the plates are in oil, but I’m still waiting on the clutch cover gasket.
    Also, I need to lean the pilots a smidge, and I’ll be replacing the 4-cell LiPo battery with an 8-cell, to accommodate the total loss charging system that I’ll soon be running.
    __________________________________________

    I have a small laundry list of things that need attention on the street bike, that will have to wait for a little bit, but I did get the hugger mounted, gave it a good washing, and mounted the new OEM rear brake pads.

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    #57483
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    jnsracing
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    My plan was to replace the clutch this past weekend, and then I remembered that my previous plan was that when I had to finally do the clutch, at the same time, I was going to install the Factory Pro micro-bearing arm/stiffer spring, for more positive shifts and fewer-to-none false neutrals.
    You’ve got to have the clutch basket out of the way to install the shift kit anyway, so it just makes sense to do it all at once, and that saves a wasted gasket as well… I ordered that kit last week, and I should have it before Friday, so next weekend will be the gearbox work.

    I did make some progress on the swingarm, though, around dealing with the disaster of a flooded basement.

    I cut all the tabs that are ONLY used for the OEM rear hugger, ground down those welds, and the welds from my previous lift-spool mounting points, and then sanded things smooth in those places.

    I dropped it off for blasting/powder-coating, during my lunch hour today – I should get it by Friday, or even sooner, with worst-case scenario being Monday… since my new chain guard has not yet shipped anyway, there’s really no rush.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #57486
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    jules
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    I really, really love this :-)

    When the power of love overcomes the love of power, then the world will know peace...

    #57503
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    jnsracing
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    Thanks @Jules, it DO look kinda purrty don’t it? :mrgreen:

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    #57520
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    admin
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    @Jules said:
    I really, really love this :-)

    I’ve said it probably 100 times before and i’ll say it again.

    DAYYYUUUUMMMM she looks pretty.

    #57533
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    jnsracing
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    Thanks @admin! I can’t wait to get on to the next phase of this deal, but I’ve got a lot on my plate this season with the race bike, and, well… racing it! :roll:

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #57536
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    jnsracing
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    Points: 12,570

    I picked up the swingarm, and the end-caps for the axle adjusters, from the powder-coaters today during lunch… very happy with how it turned out.

    Also, my chain guard shipped today, so I should receive it either Monday or Tuesday.

    The shift kit came the day before yesterday, so this weekend I can get that installed, replace the clutch, reinstall the swingarm and rear wheel, and maybe also get the repair done to the race plastics.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

    #57550
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    jnsracing
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    I did not get as much done this weekend as I intended, but there were some unavoidable projects that stole my time.

    I had already drilled the new holes for the lift spools, before powder-coating, but I did not show them previously – this is where they are located:

    I used some blue loc-tite (medium) on the spool bolts and threaded them in through the square nuts, while using a finger to hold it in place until the threads got started, from there, the nut is locked in place on the bottom of the swingarm, and I could just tighten it down… you can see in the pic below, how putting that beveled end of the square nut facing away from the bike, allows it to sit nice and flush with the inside radius at the bottom of the swingarm.

    I packed the swingarm bearings with new grease and reinstalled them, along with the spacers and seals, remounted the swingarm to the bike, installed both spools, and lifted the rear with the stand.

    Due to shortness of time, I did not get much done with the gearbox, just drained oil, removed the clutch cable and clutch cover, and stopped just short of un-staking the clutch center nut.

    The chain guard should be there when I get home tonight, so I’m excited to get that installed.

    (((http://ridecbr.com/forums/topic/my-f2-builds/))) (((https://www.facebook.com/JNSRacing72)))

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